Choosing a walk in Český ráj – some questions answered

There are nearly fifty different walks included in these pages. This might seem excessive for a region that is not so large. In fact, you will find many of the most attractive locations in Český ráj appear multiple times on walks in these pages.

What this guide is trying to do is provide the reader with a variety of options. Most guides describe a single walk with a fixed length in a certain area. This one has multiple walks in the same area, of different lengths and sometimes on easier or harder terrain. That gives you a choice to make. Hopefully somewhere in here you will find just the right walk to match your current mood, the weather, the season or fitness level!

What are the different ways you can select a walk in the guide?

– One option is simply to scroll through the page showing All the walks, using the short description to select some walks to investigate. You can also view all the walks in table form on the Index page (the table is also pasted at the bottom of this page). Walks are always listed from shortest to longest

– If you already know that you want a short walk (up to 10km) , a medium walk (10km to 20km), a long walk (20km to 40km) or a multiday walk, then you can select the appropriate length (there is a menu at the bottom of every page): this will filter the walks just for that type

– Despite its relatively small size, there are four broadly separate areas for walking in Český ráj; a) the northern section (basically everything north of Turnov), b) the central section (from Hrubá Skála to Trosky), c) the southwest section (everything between Mnichovo Hradiště and Sobotka) and d) the southeast section (around Jičín and the Prachovské skály). Apart from the multiday walks, every walk on the site is specific to one of these four areas. So, if you want to focus on walks just in one area, then select the appropriate area filter to show just those walks

– If you want to look only for walks that visit a specific location (eg Valdštejn castle, or the Příhrazské rocks), then you can click on a tag in the list at the bottom of every page to bring up a page showing all the entries for that location. You can also type the keyword into the search box, or visit the People & Places page (to see the full menu of searchable locations). Routes appropriate for walkers with very young children (in a baby stroller) will find some walks tagged accordingly

Can the walks be done at any time of year?

– Generally, yes. The main tourist season lasts from April to October. During this period you should expect to find most of the attractions which require an entrance (eg the larger castles) and restaurants/kiosks/hotels, fully open. In the off season, some locations and refreshment spots/toilets may be closed, but the trails do not shut and in some ways this quieter period can be the best time to visit Český ráj (particularly if you would rather have the trails mostly to yourselves)

– In winter, the trails do sometimes get covered in snow, and can also get icy. On these days I would tend to avoid the trails with steep step sections, but otherwise going for a winter walk in Český ráj is not so different from walking anywhere else in the Czech countryside. Apart from Kozákov hill, which can get properly wintery at times, almost all the walking in Český ráj lies between 200m and 450m altitude

– Some locations are particularly attractive in certain seasons. The ‘rock cities’ are often at their most picturesque in spring and autumn when the different colours of the trees contrast perfectly with the sandstone rock. Prachovské skály is especially beautiful at this time. The marshy valleys of Podtrosecká and Plakánek are exceptional when the early spring flowers emerge. Equally, in summer the smell of herbs and pine needles baking in the warm sand that lines the trails all the sandstone rock area, is almost intoxicating

– The most famous sites, such as Hrubá Skála, Valdštejn, Prachovské skály, Kost and Trosky, do get very busy on summer weekends. I personally would choose less well known spots for walks at this time, and might choose something in the northern area of Český ráj, possibly starting in Turnov , or perhaps something in the Příhrazské skály or Podtrosecká valley.

How much time should you allow for completing a walk in Český ráj?

– Everyone has a different pace and style of walking, also impacted by the weather and conditions underfoot. How often you want to stop to take photos or for breaks will also have an impact on walking times. For these reasons, no specific time estimates are given for any of the walks included in my♡Český ráj, just distances and height gained/lost, together with an indication of the type of the terrain

– However, as a rough guide, in good weather I typically budget around an hour for every 4 km on a typical Český ráj walk, adding an hour to the estimate for every 500m of ascent. That usually allows enough time for the usual stops and breaks

What transport options are recommended for the walks in the guide?

– Almost all of the walks described in the guide are circular, starting and finishing at a specified car parking area within the Český ráj region, so arriving by car will almost always be the most convenient option. The only exceptions are the multiday walks and the one day walk along the ‘Golden trail’ between Turnov and Trosky, where the directions start at a local railway station and finish at a different station

– It should be noted that most of the parking areas in Český ráj are relatively small and can get full at peak times (particularly summer weekends). I have tried to note on the walk pages those parking spots particularly at risk of being very busy, where choosing to go for a very early start, public transport or an alternative location, might be advisable at peak times

– Most of the walks can, in theory, be undertaken by using public transport – normally to a regional train station – and walking from there to the designated start/finish. However, this option usually adds significant extra distance to the walk, mostly on roads and/or less interesting terrain. Where the train is an obvious alternative to driving, adding little extra distance to the walk (eg for the walks starting in Turnov) I have made this clear in the walk notes

– There is a good network of bus routes throughout Český ráj, but the infrequency of local buses between the small villages, where most of the walks start and finish, makes it difficult to recommend this as a general transport option. The mapy.cz on line tool which has been used to prepare the directions for the walks in the guide does have a useful feature where bus (and train) times are shown by clicking on the respective icon on the map. This should enable walkers to assess the viability of using bus transport on the desired day of travel

– In the main summer season there are special tourist bus routes in operation to popular locations in Český ráj, starting from Turnov, Jičín and Mlada Boleslav, which increases the options for travel from these hubs (which can reasonably quickly be reached by train or bus from Prague). Bus timetable information can normally be found on the excellent cesky-raj.info website

Are there particular trails would I recommend either for ‘first time’ or regular visitors to Český ráj?

– I realize that first time visitors may have little choice about the timing of their trip, so if visiting the most famous sites in summer, try to avoid weekends if possible, or get to the region as early as possible in the day. For an all-round package of great rocks, views and famous castles, it is difficult to beat a walk a walk in the Hrubá Skála area. If I wanted something a bit quieter but still a great package of those three things, I would probably do something either in the Příhrazské rock area or the Besedické rocks. If I was visiting in the off season, particularly in late autumn or early spring, I would have a walk in the Prachovské skály close to the top of my list.

– Regular visitors to Český ráj are spoilt for choice. My recommendations generally focus on some less famous places and specific trails that might perhaps not have been tried yet. I love the walks in the usually tranquil Podtrosecká valley, and along the canal close to Turnov. My favourite rock areas (if wanting to avoid the crowds in Hrubá Skála and Prachovské) are the maze-like Besedické rocks, the knee-pounding yellow trail to Rotštejn castle in the Klokočské skály and the slow walk up the Vranov ridge to Frýdštejn castle. If walking in Hrubá Skála area, I would not want to miss the yellow trail with its brilliant castle viewpoints, and in the Prachovské skály, I think the forgotten viewpoint on Přivýšina hill, near Brada, is definitely worth a small detour. That’s not an exhaustive list of favourite spots, and I might add to the list if there are requests to do so

Are there any particularly recommended hotels or restaurants in Český ráj?

– I have to admit that most of my walks in Český ráj have been done as day trips from Prague, sometimes very long day trips. I have only stayed overnight in the region on a few occasions, so my personal knowledge of the hotel scene is quite limited. I have, however, particularly enjoyed my stays in the hotels at Hrubá Skála – the castle hotel and the Hotel Stekl. I also like the Bohemia Inn in Turnov and the Grand Hotel Praha in Jičín

– For the multiday walks I have added a few other suggestions for overnight options, based on my external observations of the hotels, and the reviews on the various well known travel and hotel booking sites

– As far as restaurants are concerned, it is much the same story. When I am waking in the Příhrazské rock area, I do enjoy stopping at the restaurant Na Krásné Vyhlídce (and the option of staying there overnight looks tempting too) . There are various other pubs and hotel restaurants that I pop into when I am on a walk in that area. These are mentioned on the specific walk pages

– I do not really intend for this site to become a hotel and restaurant guide as well as a walking guide, but if visitors to this site have particularly positive experiences staying in hotels, pensions and guest houses, and eating in the region, and want to share those experiences with me, I may update the site with a specific page on hotels, pubs and restaurants, when I have gathered enough direct feedback from walkers using the guide to make it insightful